Tanks: Size and Weight

            This week, I’ll be discussing different types of tanks appropriate for bettas, as there are quite a few options available these days. Last week, I mentioned that a tank 5-10 gallons is adequate for a single male betta, 5 being the minimum. I also mentioned that a 10 gallon is suitable for 3 females…this still holds true.

Tank Types

There are two tank-types available: glass and acrylic. Each has equal advantages and disadvantages.

(Photo provided by: davesgarden.com)

            Glass Tanks: I actually prefer glass tanks, due to their resistance to scratches, ease of cleaning, and clarity of viewing. However, glass tanks are also heavier and continue to become heavier as the tank-size increases. This is due to the thickness of the glass increasing with the size in order to support an increased water pressure. (Tullock) Glass tanks should never be moved while containing water, as the tank is much heavier due to water pressure and will break.

(Photo provided by: theaquapet.com)

            Acrylic Tanks: Acrylic tanks are more prone to scratches; they also cost more than glass tanks do. Acrylic tanks are also not as clear as glass tanks are. However, acrylic tanks are extremely light and come in many different shapes, such as: rectangles, squares, hexagons, octagons, tubes, etc. (Tullock) Acrylic tanks should also never be moved while containing water, as they crack easily.

When choosing a tank, keep these tips in mind:
-Make sure it has a wide surface-area for proper gas exchange (the absorption of oxygen and release of carbon dioxide).
-Never purchase bowls!
-Stay away from tall, narrow tanks. (Tullock)
-Look for possible damages to the tank, such as blemishes, scratches, or ripped silicone sealant.
-Stay away from tanks that appear as if they have been used before!

Now let’s take a look at how to figure out tank-weight and tank-size.

Size

            There is a simple method for finding the capacity of the tank through a formula provided by Tullock. Measure the length, width, and height of the tank (in inches) and use the following formula:

Length × Width × Height ÷ 231 = capacity (in gallons)

Using 5-gallons as an example, it would be:

16 × 8 × 9 ÷ 231 = 5 gallons

And you thought you’d never have to use math again, huh?

Weight

            Bettas are fresh-water fish, fresh-water in itself weighs nearly 8 pounds per gallon. (Tullock) To find the weight of your tank, you multiply the tank-size by the 8 pounds per-gallon rule. Let’s use a 5-gallon tank as an example:

8 (pounds per gallon) × 5 = 40 pounds

This is without including decorations and equipment!

            Now, add about 2 pounds per-gallon for gravel/substrate, and another 15 pounds for decorations and equipment (Tullock); making this:

8 + 2 = 10 pounds

10 × 5 = 50 pounds

50 + 15 = 65 pounds

            Including decorations and substrate, a 5-gallon tank would on average weight 65 pounds! Always make sure to have a stand that will accommodate such a weight.

*I hope you all again enjoyed this week’s post!*

 

Sources which I will be using are from personal experience, and three of my favorite books dedicated to this topic:

 

Alderton, David. Bettas and Gouramis. Irvine: BowTie Press, 2004.

Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D. The Betta Handbook. Hauppauge: Barron's, 2004.

Tullock, John H. Your Happy Healthy Pet Betta. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.

The Truth

This week, let me start off by explaining why Bettas are one of the most commonly misunderstood fish in existence.

The Truth: About Tank-Sizes

(Photo provided by: bettatalk.com)

            Have you ever gone into a local pet shop and seen those pathetic-looking fish stored separately in small cups? These are Bettas. When people see these small cups, they assume this is an adequate amount of living-space for the Betta. This is wrong…so very WRONG! Here are a few photos of conditions that are not appropriate for Bettas:

(Photo provided by: bettatalk.com)

            Vase: The Betta vase has become an extremely popular method of keeping Bettas. People assume that they can stick a plant over the top and the Betta can snack on its roots. This is wrong in so many ways. First of all, the Betta has no way of getting to the surface of the water, due to the plant. Also, there is not enough surface area in the vase for proper gas exchange. Gas exchange is the releasing of carbon dioxide and the absorption of oxygen. The Betta also cannot handle the bio-waste from the plant, which holds a lot of bacteria, and also the bio-load (waste) that the Betta itself will produce. This Betta will eventually die of carbon dioxide poisoning, or a bacterial disease.

(Photo provided by: sengook.com)

            Bowl: No matter the style, bowls are not suitable for any type of fish! Generally, you will see Bettas kept in wall-hung Betta bowls. Bowls, just like the vase, do not provide enough surface area for proper gas exchange.

(Photo provided by: fishtanksdirect.com)

            Betta Cube: Betta cubes also do not provide the Betta wish enough surface area for proper gas exchange. These cubes are also much too small for the betta to swim.

(Photo provided by: bettafish.com)

            Critter Keepers: Critter Keepers are commonly found in pet stores and come in extremely small sizes; ranging from 1/3 of a gallon to about 3 gallons.

Now, let’s look at a proper environment for the Betta.

(Photo provided by: bettatalk.com)

            A single male Betta will need a tank between 5-10 gallons; 5 gallons being the bare minimum. A sorority of three females would do well in a 10 gallon tank. Bettas also need a heater with a built in thermostat, and a filter that does not produce a strong current. Due to the enhancement of the Betta’s fins, they cannot handle strong currents.  Bettas also need a good substrate, small or medium grained. Live plants also help oxygenate the water and control waste/ammonia levels. My favorite plant to use in my Betta tanks is the Marimo Moss Ball. Marimo Moss Balls compete with algae growth, usually suffocating it before it has a chance to cling to any surface of your tank. I have four of these in each of my Betta tanks, and the Bettas absolutely love to rub against them and sleep on them. We’ll discuss aquatic plants later on for your Betta.

The Truth: About Betta Isolation

(My betta girls, starting from the left: Piper, Prue, and Phoebe)

These fish have to be kept individually in those small cups; not because they are naturally vicious, not because they will fight to the death, and definitely not because it is in their nature to fight. The truth is Bettas are territorial. However, if two males have never been separated as fry (babies) they would be able to live together peacefully through adulthood. Females, on the other hand, are able to live together in sororities of three or more; regardless if they are related or not. Females will establish a pecking-order, chasing one another and nipping each other. Once the pecking order has been established, this behavior stops.

 

*This week, I used personal experience, alone, as my reference. For the next couple of weeks, I will be addressing proper tank set-up and maintenance. This is “key” to your Betta’s health and it is also an extensive area that I really want to cover thoroughly. Again, I hope you enjoyed this week’s posting!*

 

Tail-Shapes and Color-Variations

Today, let’s take a look at tail-shapes and color patterns of Bettas. Bettas come in a variety of different shapes and vibrant colors; this is due to the process of selective breeding. Selective breeding is the process of choosing a male and female for their specific traits, which would be passed on to the fishes’ spawn (also known as fry). I will be showing photos of only male Bettas so you can properly see the tail-shapes at their full potential.

Tail-Shapes

(My Betta Boy, Ares.)

Veil Tail: The Veil-tail Betta, is possibly one of the most commonly found Bettas in pet stores/aquarium shops. The Betta’s caudal (tail) fin arches and slopes downward creating an appearance much like the shape of a wedding-veil (hence the name).

(This is Poseidon, a Betta I rescued from Meijer; he had internal parasites, which I was able to successfully cure. Sadly, he passed away last September, at the age of 6, due to old age.)

Crown Tail: The crown-tail Betta is also very commonly found in pet stores/aquarium shops. Crown-tail Bettas have particularly delicate fins, which become brittle if water parameters are not cared for correctly.

(Photo provided by: fighterfishlebanon.e-monsite.com)

Half-Moon: The half-moon Betta is, yet again, also a very popular form that you may see in pet stores/aquarium shops. When this Betta flares, their tail appears to be in the shape of half a moon. Betta tail names are sometimes self-explanatory.

(Photo provided by: betta-forum.net)

Rose-Tail: The Rose-Tail Betta is an accidental discovery, due to the breeding of half-moon Bettas. Over-lapping of the rays in the caudal (tail) fin, cause these Bettas to have a rose-like appearance in their fins. These Bettas are also commonly referred to as Feather-Tailed Bettas.

(Photo provided by: petadvice.com)

            Spade Tail: The spade-tail Betta has a wide caudal (tail) fin base which narrows into a sophisticated point; resembling a spade. These Bettas are not seen very often anymore; however, it is possible to purchase them from an online vender.

(Photo provided by: bettafish.com)

            Double Tail: The double-tailed Betta does not actually have two tails. This is a mutation which causes the Betta’s rays to be doubled in number, and collected into two separate bunches. This is what causes the tail to appear to be split in half. Double-tailed Bettas commonly have swim-bladder issues due to the stunting of the length of their bodies.

(Photo provided by: amberbettas.webs.com)

            Plakat Betta: The Plakat Bettas have short finnage, stronger jaws, sharper teeth, and their scales are also harder which help them fend off disease. Sadly, these Bettas are also a favorite among fighting enthusiasts due to their tough scales and strength (Please note that it is illegal to fight Bettas, as it is considered animal cruelty). These Bettas are allowed to move more quickly due to not being bogged down by the excessive weight of their long-finned relatives. These Bettas may also be referred to as Dragon-Scale Bettas and are commonly found in pet stores such as Petsmart.

            There are many varieties of tail-shapes in Bettas today, and more are constantly being discovered. These (above) are just the ones I have run into through my experience and time with Bettas.

 

Color-Variations

Now let’s move on to color-variations. Wild bettas do not actually possess the colorful variations you see in domesticated bettas; Wild bettas actually have short fins and very little color (mostly brown). Some wild Bettas, however, are exceptions to this rule.

(Photo provided by:  natureye.com)

This is a Betta Macrostoma, one of many variations of wild Bettas. This Betta is very colorful for being a wild Betta, yet still possesses the short finnage found in wild Bettas.

There are six major color variations found in domesticated Bettas. However, more color variations are being discovered; just like tail-shapes.

            Solid-colored: Solid-colored Bettas have one color which covers the entire body. Sometimes, these Bettas will have imperfections, which breeders are working to eliminate. These could range from small specks of other colors or colored faces. (Tullock) (To me, it really doesn’t matter; I think they are beautiful all the same. Autolycus has a black face, and I think it is adorable!)

(My Betta, Phoebe is a perfect example of a bi-colored Betta. Her fins are dark pink while her body is light pink)

            Bi-colored: Bi-colored Bettas have a body that is one solid color. The fins are a lighter or a darker version of the body color. (Tullock)

(Photo provided by: bettas-jimsonnier.com)

            Cambodian-colored: Cambodian-colored Bettas have a body of one color and fins of another. This can also apply to bettas that have a colored body and transparent fins. (Tullock)

(Photo provided by: animal-world.com)

            Butterfly-colored: Butterfly-colored Bettas have a body of one color, which blends into the fins near the torso area. Then, the outer edges of the fins possess a different color. (Tullock)

(Photo provided by: bettascapes.com)

            Cambodian-butterfly-colored: The Cambodian-butterfly Betta is a cross between Cambodian and butterfly color variations (as the name suggests). The body is one color, while the fins consist of two different colors. (Tullock)

(Photo provided by: flickr.com)

            Marble-colored: The marbled Betta is quite unique. The body and fin tips are the same color; however, the inner portion of the fins is a completely different color. (Tullock) Sometimes, marbled Bettas can have splotches of one color on their bodies and fins and the rest of them are a different color. Marbled bettas also change their appearance with age. You could have a solid blue betta and within a couple months he will be blue and white!

 

*I hope you all enjoyed today’s post and learned something new and exciting about Bettas!*

 

Sources which I will be using are from personal experience, and three of my favorite books dedicated to this topic:

 

Alderton, David. Bettas and Gouramis. Irvine: BowTie Press, 2004.

Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D. The Betta Handbook. Hauppauge: Barron's, 2004.

Tullock, John H. Your Happy Healthy Pet Betta. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.

 

           

Body Functions and Senses

            Today, I’m going to be discussing aspects of the body and how bettas use their senses. This will give you a better understanding of how a betta survives and functions in an environment. Let’s start off with the mouth structure.

The Mouth

(Starting from the left: Leo, Ares, and Autolycus)

           

           The Betta’s mouth is possibly one of its most interesting features. Bettas have rows, upon rows of tiny, sharp teeth. In proportion to body size, a betta’s jaw is larger and stronger than that of the great white shark! Pretty cool, huh? However, don’t let that scare you off; bettas are also gentle parents. They use their mouths to scoop up their young, and deliver them to the nest safe and sound (We’ll talk more about parenting later on). A betta’s mouth is upturned, which is known as the superior mouth position. This allows the Betta to eat from the surface of the water, scoop up their young, and tend to their nests. (Tullock)

The Swim Bladder

            Let’s move on to the swim bladder. Like many other types of fish, the betta has an organ called the swim bladder. The swim bladder is filled with gas that allows the betta to rise and sink in the water, just by making minor adjustments to the gas pressure inside the organ. (Tullock) Over-feeding can cause the betta to lose buoyancy in the water, rendering the swim bladder completely useless until digestion. We’ll talk more about this problem later and how to avoid/treat it.

Senses 

            The senses of the betta are both similar and completely different compared to human’s senses. I will explain how Bettas see, hear, taste, smell, and even detect potential threats.

WARNING: Do not try the example of betta alignment below! This is stressful to the betta and disorienting; not to mention CRUEL!!!

Vision: Betta’s rely on their eye-sight alone to align themselves in the water; they do this by detecting light, which is usually directly above them reflecting off the water surface. According to John Tullock, “If you shine a flashlight into the side of an otherwise darkened tank, the Betta will usually swim sideways, positioning itself appropriately to the false “up” position. Change the direction of the light again and the Betta will orient accordingly.” Bettas cannot adjust to change in brightness as easily as people can. If you turn on an aquarium light in a darkened room, the betta will act startled. Turn on room lights first in order to avoid this problem. Each of the betta’s eyes produces a different image, known as monocular vision. A Betta lacks depth perception and can only focus on objects that are about a foot away. (Tullock)

Hearing: Betta’s ears are a simple inner chamber that detects vibrations passed over sensory components within the chamber to provide sound. It is also believed that the swim bladder assists the inner chamber to amplify and distinguish sound patterns. (Tullock)

Taste and Smell: The way in which bettas taste is quite fascinating. Bettas have taste buds located at the mouth, lips, and even…the fins! Bettas detect smells through the nostrils, just like you and I. These senses allow bettas to respond to chemicals in the water; such as the presence of food, and predators. (Tullock)

Lateral Line: Among the most interesting Betta senses is the lateral line. Bettas rely on the lateral line to locate nearby objects, find food, avoid obstacles, and detect predators. Due to their poor eye-sight, the lateral line is very beneficial to the betta. The lateral line has small holes along it which enable water pressure to affect specific nerve endings. The fish’s brain interprets the nerve signals as an image of the Betta’s surroundings! (Tullock) If the betta were to lose its eye-sight all-together, it would still be able to see its environment through mental imagery. Pretty neat, huh?

            Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed today's post! Please feel free to leave some comments or ask questions!

 

Sources which I will be using are from personal experience, and three of my favorite books dedicated to this topic:

 

Alderton, David. Bettas and Gouramis. Irvine: BowTie Press, 2004.

Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D. The Betta Handbook. Hauppauge: Barron's, 2004.

Tullock, John H. Your Happy Healthy Pet Betta. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.