Tanks: Decorations

             Now, here comes the fun part! There are numerous variations of tank decorations available to make your Betta’s habitat both comfortable and beautiful. When purchasing decorations, you’ll have to be careful not to get items with sharp edges that could snag your Betta’s fins. To test this, take a piece of panty-hose and drag it across the surface of the item. If the panty-hose snags on the ornament, it is likely it will snag your Betta’s delicate fins. Here are just a few items and ideas for your tank. Enjoy!

 

Caves are great for Bettas; they love to swim through them and hid in them when stressed or startled. Bettas also enjoy taking naps in them during the day. Remember, Bettas cannot close their eyes, so a dark, shaded place for them to relax is very beneficial. Caves can also make your tank look pretty interesting.

 

 

Plants, whether real or artificial, are a must-have in your tank; when choosing artificial plants try to find silk aquarium plants. Silk plants are realistic looking and also won’t snag your Betta’s fins. If you are unable to find silk plants, try to find plastic ones without any sharp leafs. Do the panty-hose test if you’re unsure. We’ll discuss real plants for your Betta tank later-on.

 

           

Rocks can add a little something extra to your tank, creating a more natural looking environment. You’ll have to be careful to avoid rocks that could have a change on your water hardness though. I would stick with rocks found in aquarium shops, or river rocks. Avoid the temptation to put sea-shells in your tank, these have a major change on water-hardness!

 

 

Driftwood also makes your aquarium really come to life! Driftwood is also a great base for some aquatic plant life to attach itself to the wood and flourish. Always purchase driftwood from an aquarium shop. This wood has been properly treated for safe use in an aquarium. It’s also a good idea to soak the wood for about two weeks in a separate bucket before placing it into the aquarium. Change the water in the bucket twice a week; it is possible for the wood to leach in this time.

 

Backgrounds are readily sold in pet stores and aquarium shops. These come in a variety of colors and scenes. If you want to go for one solid color, stick with dark blues or blacks. For scenes, choose ones which fit your aquarium scheme. I personally like the underwater scenes with plants and rocks in the background. Scenes can give the illusion that your tank is larger and this makes your fish feel more immersed in the environment.

***I used personal experience for this posting***

Tanks: Extra Equipment

               When caring for a tank, there are numerous smaller items you’ll need to maintain your aquarium. Some of these items you may not even find in a pet store, or aquarium shop. These items will definitely make these basic tank maintenance tasks easier. Just a side note: never use products that have come into contact with soap!

 

Scrapers are used to remove algae and calcium build-up from the aquarium glass inside of the tank. My own scraper has a two-sided head, containing a soft sponge and scrub pad. Scrapers will also commonly feature a plastic blade at the top of the sponges for scraping away stubborn algae. Another feature, is a fork-like structure at the end of the long handle of the scraper, this is used for turning gravel and planting aquatic plants. This tool is very useful in numerous ways.

 

Strainers can be used to rinse gravel (which should be done once a month). Make sure the strainer does not have holes that are big enough for the gravel to slip through, and NEVER use it for food purposes in your own kitchen, the fish owns it now!

 

Turkey Basters are probably a strange item for you to see on here. Turkey basters actually work much better than a gravel vacuum or a siphon. I use a turkey baster to remove the fish waste and uneaten food from my aquariums; I’ll never use a gravel vacuum again! Make sure to replace the water you remove from the tank during this process with fresh water. Also, NEVER use this for food purposes in your own kitchen, the fish owns this too!

 

Cups are also useful when you need to feed fish separately, change tank water, keep fish in order to clean the tank, and more! Remember the little plastic cups your Betta came in? KEEP THEM!!! They will come in useful! Just make sure to rinse them thoroughly before and after use.

 

Nets come in a variety of different shapes and sizes and can be used for just about anything. Smaller nets can be used to catch your fish, or remove debris from the water. Larger nets can be used to rinse tank ornaments as well as gravel, much like strainers. Always make sure to rinse nets before and after every use!

 

Test Kits are important to keep track of your water conditions. These tests generally come in test strips or liquid tests. I’ve found the liquid tests tend to be more accurate. Purchasing a complete test kit is ultimately more inexpensive than buying separate tests. These tests check Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, PH, and water hardness. These tests are kind of fun to play with, they remind me of chemistry class (lol).

 

Buckets come in handy for doing water changes and decontaminating some items in the tank. I currently use two 5-gallon buckets and one smaller bucket. I use one 5-gallon to remove dirty water from my fish tanks, while I use the other 5-gallon to return clean water to the tank. The smaller bucket is used for decontaminating newly purchased items for the tank.  

***I used personal experience for this posting***

Tanks Continued: Filters and Heaters

          Today, we’ll be discussing filtration and heating systems to create a comfortable environment for your Betta. As a side note: it is very important to make sure all equipment is rinsed thoroughly before coming into contact with your Betta’s aquarium. Some equipment could have been exposed to harmful bacteria which could contaminate your Betta’s environment and ultimately cause harm to your fish…even kill.

Filtration Systems

            There are numerous filters available today which provide many benefits to your aquarium’s biological cycle (we’ll discuss this more in depth later on). Filters remove debris from the water and most models also release water bubbles, which aerate the water or provide the water with oxygen. (Tullock) Before getting into the actual filter types, let’s talk about the three types of filtration known as: biological, chemical, and mechanical filtration.

Biological Filtration is the process of converting ammonia into nitrites and nitrates (this is part of the nitrogen cycle which will be discussed later on). Filters are generally designed to provide more area for nitrifying bacteria to colonize on its surface; this is the slimy film you generally feel on tank decorations and the outside of your filter. (Tullock)

Chemical Filtration removes dissolved compounds from the water. Activated carbon is generally used here to dissolve minerals as the water passes through the filter, though there are many other types of filter media that can also remove these compounds. (Tullock)

Mechanical Filtration removes debris from the water, (Tullock) such as uneaten food and other solid objects that may be floating around your tank.

Now, we’re ready to talk about filters!

Corner Box Filters

 

(Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Corner box filters were designed for small aquariums. Corner box filters contain a single airstone attached to a pump which pushes water through layers of activated charcoal and floss inside a plastic box. These filters are not recommended due to the amount of time it takes to filter all of the water in the tank. (Tullock)

Power Filters

 

(Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Power filters, on the other hand, are highly recommended. Power filters come in numerous sizes to accommodate almost any aquarium size. The replacement filter cartridges are inexpensive, and they are simple to replace. It is a good idea to choose a power filter which accepts two filter cartridges at once. This way, you will not interrupt the filtration process by removing all of the beneficial bacteria when changing out cartridges. (Tullock) Only change one cartridge at a time about every four weeks.

I use power filters in my own tanks; over the years I’ve found that they work the best to keep my aquariums in pristine conditions. These filters run by an air-pump which pulls water up through a siphon that extends nearly to the bottom of the aquarium. Then pushes water through the filter cartridges and out through a spill-way, which returns the filtered water to the tank. (Tullock)

Canister Filters

 

(Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Canister filters contain several compartments through which the water is drawn by a pump. The water enters and leaves the tank through hoses connected to the filter. Canister filters are more efficient for larger tanks containing numerous fish. These systems are usually more expensive, but do maintain efficient water chemistry. (Tullock) I would suggest using these filters on a 20+ gallon tank.

Undergravel Filters

 

(Biological and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Undergravel filters consist of plastic plates which sit on risers about an inch above the bottom of the aquarium. Two, sometimes six, uplift tubes fit into the holes at the base of these plates. Undergravel filters cause the gravel alone to be the filter media. Though undergravel filters are beneficial for this reason, debris eventually becomes trapped in the gravel bed. The trapped debris takes hours to remove and has to be removed manually. (Tullock)

Fluidized Bed Filters

 

(Biological filtration benefits)

Much like undergravel filters, fluidized bed filters use the bed of the aquarium as the filter media; however, sand is used here instead of gravel. When water is pumped through the filter, it keeps the sand suspended and continuously moving. (Tullock) These filters are difficult to maintain, for this reason I wouldn’t recommend them to beginners. Also, sand is generally not a good substrate for Bettas, sand is better used with scale-less fish…like the dwarf puffer fish! (They are so cute!)

Sponge Filters

 

(Biological filtration benefits)

Sponge filters are very simple filters, they draw water in through a large sponge. These filters are most commonly used in quarantine, hospital, or fry tanks. (Tullock) I would not recommend this filter for use in a regular tank; however, they are very useful for fry tanks if you plan on breeding (do NOT breed Bettas if you are not experienced in this area, seek help first).

Heaters

            There are two types of heaters for the aquarium: submersible and non-submersible. Bettas prefer a temperature of 79-82 degrees Fahrenheit. Always purchase a heater with a built-in thermostat, and one which allows you to adjust the temperature. It Is also a good idea to include a thermometer in your tank to keep track of the water temp.
 

Submersible Heaters are entirely encased in a water-tight glass tube and can be placed completely in the water.
 

Non-Submersible Heaters hang on the tank’s frame while a glass tube rests in the water. These heaters cannot be completely submersed, only the glass tube may come into contact with the water.

I would recommend purchasing a submersible heater; this eliminates the risk of the non-submersible heater possibly falling into the tank by accident.

 

Sources which I will be using are from personal experience, and three of my favorite books dedicated to this topic:

 

Alderton, David. Bettas and Gouramis. Irvine: BowTie Press, 2004.

Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D. The Betta Handbook. Hauppauge: Barron's, 2004.

Tullock, John H. Your Happy Healthy Pet Betta. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.

Meet Aurum

          This week, I thought it would be a nice change of pace to take a break from tank-setups to introduce you to a new addition to my Betta babies. This week, I’ll be discussing his personality (believe it or not, Bettas have personalities...and big ones!), as well as where he came from. Meet Aurum, named after the Latin name for gold. 

 

From Where?

            Aurum is actually a rescue from Petsmart, which my mother had brought home to me. She told me she was at Petsmart shopping for cat-toys when she noticed a woman was arguing with one of the faculty in the fish department. The woman was holding this betta up to the man who worked there and was telling him that the fish was sick and had tuberculosis, which would spread to the other fish unless he disposed of it. The man took the betta from the woman and was walking toward the back-room when my mom stopped him and said she would take it home to her daughter (me) who is a betta fanatic. My mom paid the full price for him and brought him home to me. He looked very sickly, but it was definitely not tuberculosis (thankfully).

            His cup was filled with his own waste and his gills were inflamed from a bacterial infection. I didn’t waste time to take photos of him in his cup (I never do)…but he did look pretty rough. I got him into a quarantine tank with fresh water and a bit of aquarium salt to fend off the harmful bacteria in his lungs. I was worried he would not make it through the night, but I woke up yesterday morning to find an active and healthy betta. His gill coverings are now lying flat instead of sticking out, and his colors are now vibrant and beautiful. Compared to how they were when I first moved him into the tank. In the picture below, you can kind of see how his gill coverings are sticking out, just a bit, from his body.

 

          His colors in this photo are also very dull compared to how he looks now. I’m very happy that he is doing better; I’ve always wanted a yellow betta and never have been able to find them before.

Personality/Hobbies

Aurum is obsessed with his pink, plastic plant.

 

         He loves to rest on the broad leafs, and hide between the branches. When I have a Betta in a quarantine tank, I do not put them with real plants, in order to protect the plants from possibly being infected. Once his two-weeks are up in the quarantine tank, I will move him to a larger tank with real plants for him to hide in and rest on.

 

          Aurum likes to spend most of his time watching people outside of his tank as he swims past…mostly me.

          Aurum gave himself a bit of a scare when he saw another betta looking in on him, it took him a while to discover that it was just his own reflection and he had no need to flare. You can kind of see how red his gills are on the inside, they should actually be pink. It will take a little while for his gills to heal from the bacteria damaging them.

 

          Aurum finally discovered that he was only seeing himself, and he is now obsessed with his own reflection. He also enjoys staring into his thermometer to see himself; it is pretty amusing watching him cross his eyes in order to see his shrunken reflection in the bowed glass of the thermometer. I think he knows he is a pretty boy (lol). I really love this photo; his fins are very beautiful and graceful looking.

         **Well, that is all I have for you today, no lessons this week, just casual posting! I hope you enjoyed it regardless of the lack of a lesson!**

Tanks: Size and Weight

            This week, I’ll be discussing different types of tanks appropriate for bettas, as there are quite a few options available these days. Last week, I mentioned that a tank 5-10 gallons is adequate for a single male betta, 5 being the minimum. I also mentioned that a 10 gallon is suitable for 3 females…this still holds true.

Tank Types

There are two tank-types available: glass and acrylic. Each has equal advantages and disadvantages.

(Photo provided by: davesgarden.com)

            Glass Tanks: I actually prefer glass tanks, due to their resistance to scratches, ease of cleaning, and clarity of viewing. However, glass tanks are also heavier and continue to become heavier as the tank-size increases. This is due to the thickness of the glass increasing with the size in order to support an increased water pressure. (Tullock) Glass tanks should never be moved while containing water, as the tank is much heavier due to water pressure and will break.

(Photo provided by: theaquapet.com)

            Acrylic Tanks: Acrylic tanks are more prone to scratches; they also cost more than glass tanks do. Acrylic tanks are also not as clear as glass tanks are. However, acrylic tanks are extremely light and come in many different shapes, such as: rectangles, squares, hexagons, octagons, tubes, etc. (Tullock) Acrylic tanks should also never be moved while containing water, as they crack easily.

When choosing a tank, keep these tips in mind:
-Make sure it has a wide surface-area for proper gas exchange (the absorption of oxygen and release of carbon dioxide).
-Never purchase bowls!
-Stay away from tall, narrow tanks. (Tullock)
-Look for possible damages to the tank, such as blemishes, scratches, or ripped silicone sealant.
-Stay away from tanks that appear as if they have been used before!

Now let’s take a look at how to figure out tank-weight and tank-size.

Size

            There is a simple method for finding the capacity of the tank through a formula provided by Tullock. Measure the length, width, and height of the tank (in inches) and use the following formula:

Length × Width × Height ÷ 231 = capacity (in gallons)

Using 5-gallons as an example, it would be:

16 × 8 × 9 ÷ 231 = 5 gallons

And you thought you’d never have to use math again, huh?

Weight

            Bettas are fresh-water fish, fresh-water in itself weighs nearly 8 pounds per gallon. (Tullock) To find the weight of your tank, you multiply the tank-size by the 8 pounds per-gallon rule. Let’s use a 5-gallon tank as an example:

8 (pounds per gallon) × 5 = 40 pounds

This is without including decorations and equipment!

            Now, add about 2 pounds per-gallon for gravel/substrate, and another 15 pounds for decorations and equipment (Tullock); making this:

8 + 2 = 10 pounds

10 × 5 = 50 pounds

50 + 15 = 65 pounds

            Including decorations and substrate, a 5-gallon tank would on average weight 65 pounds! Always make sure to have a stand that will accommodate such a weight.

*I hope you all again enjoyed this week’s post!*

 

Sources which I will be using are from personal experience, and three of my favorite books dedicated to this topic:

 

Alderton, David. Bettas and Gouramis. Irvine: BowTie Press, 2004.

Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D. The Betta Handbook. Hauppauge: Barron's, 2004.

Tullock, John H. Your Happy Healthy Pet Betta. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.

The Truth

This week, let me start off by explaining why Bettas are one of the most commonly misunderstood fish in existence.

The Truth: About Tank-Sizes

(Photo provided by: bettatalk.com)

            Have you ever gone into a local pet shop and seen those pathetic-looking fish stored separately in small cups? These are Bettas. When people see these small cups, they assume this is an adequate amount of living-space for the Betta. This is wrong…so very WRONG! Here are a few photos of conditions that are not appropriate for Bettas:

(Photo provided by: bettatalk.com)

            Vase: The Betta vase has become an extremely popular method of keeping Bettas. People assume that they can stick a plant over the top and the Betta can snack on its roots. This is wrong in so many ways. First of all, the Betta has no way of getting to the surface of the water, due to the plant. Also, there is not enough surface area in the vase for proper gas exchange. Gas exchange is the releasing of carbon dioxide and the absorption of oxygen. The Betta also cannot handle the bio-waste from the plant, which holds a lot of bacteria, and also the bio-load (waste) that the Betta itself will produce. This Betta will eventually die of carbon dioxide poisoning, or a bacterial disease.

(Photo provided by: sengook.com)

            Bowl: No matter the style, bowls are not suitable for any type of fish! Generally, you will see Bettas kept in wall-hung Betta bowls. Bowls, just like the vase, do not provide enough surface area for proper gas exchange.

(Photo provided by: fishtanksdirect.com)

            Betta Cube: Betta cubes also do not provide the Betta wish enough surface area for proper gas exchange. These cubes are also much too small for the betta to swim.

(Photo provided by: bettafish.com)

            Critter Keepers: Critter Keepers are commonly found in pet stores and come in extremely small sizes; ranging from 1/3 of a gallon to about 3 gallons.

Now, let’s look at a proper environment for the Betta.

(Photo provided by: bettatalk.com)

            A single male Betta will need a tank between 5-10 gallons; 5 gallons being the bare minimum. A sorority of three females would do well in a 10 gallon tank. Bettas also need a heater with a built in thermostat, and a filter that does not produce a strong current. Due to the enhancement of the Betta’s fins, they cannot handle strong currents.  Bettas also need a good substrate, small or medium grained. Live plants also help oxygenate the water and control waste/ammonia levels. My favorite plant to use in my Betta tanks is the Marimo Moss Ball. Marimo Moss Balls compete with algae growth, usually suffocating it before it has a chance to cling to any surface of your tank. I have four of these in each of my Betta tanks, and the Bettas absolutely love to rub against them and sleep on them. We’ll discuss aquatic plants later on for your Betta.

The Truth: About Betta Isolation

(My betta girls, starting from the left: Piper, Prue, and Phoebe)

These fish have to be kept individually in those small cups; not because they are naturally vicious, not because they will fight to the death, and definitely not because it is in their nature to fight. The truth is Bettas are territorial. However, if two males have never been separated as fry (babies) they would be able to live together peacefully through adulthood. Females, on the other hand, are able to live together in sororities of three or more; regardless if they are related or not. Females will establish a pecking-order, chasing one another and nipping each other. Once the pecking order has been established, this behavior stops.

 

*This week, I used personal experience, alone, as my reference. For the next couple of weeks, I will be addressing proper tank set-up and maintenance. This is “key” to your Betta’s health and it is also an extensive area that I really want to cover thoroughly. Again, I hope you enjoyed this week’s posting!*