Friday, March 8, 2013

Tanks Continued: Filters and Heaters


          Today, we’ll be discussing filtration and heating systems to create a comfortable environment for your Betta. As a side note: it is very important to make sure all equipment is rinsed thoroughly before coming into contact with your Betta’s aquarium. Some equipment could have been exposed to harmful bacteria which could contaminate your Betta’s environment and ultimately cause harm to your fish…even kill.

Filtration Systems

            There are numerous filters available today which provide many benefits to your aquarium’s biological cycle (we’ll discuss this more in depth later on). Filters remove debris from the water and most models also release water bubbles, which aerate the water or provide the water with oxygen. (Tullock) Before getting into the actual filter types, let’s talk about the three types of filtration known as: biological, chemical, and mechanical filtration.

Biological Filtration is the process of converting ammonia into nitrites and nitrates (this is part of the nitrogen cycle which will be discussed later on). Filters are generally designed to provide more area for nitrifying bacteria to colonize on its surface; this is the slimy film you generally feel on tank decorations and the outside of your filter. (Tullock)

Chemical Filtration removes dissolved compounds from the water. Activated carbon is generally used here to dissolve minerals as the water passes through the filter, though there are many other types of filter media that can also remove these compounds. (Tullock)

Mechanical Filtration removes debris from the water, (Tullock) such as uneaten food and other solid objects that may be floating around your tank.

Now, we’re ready to talk about filters!

Corner Box Filters
 

(Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Corner box filters were designed for small aquariums. Corner box filters contain a single airstone attached to a pump which pushes water through layers of activated charcoal and floss inside a plastic box. These filters are not recommended due to the amount of time it takes to filter all of the water in the tank. (Tullock)

Power Filters
 

(Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Power filters, on the other hand, are highly recommended. Power filters come in numerous sizes to accommodate almost any aquarium size. The replacement filter cartridges are inexpensive, and they are simple to replace. It is a good idea to choose a power filter which accepts two filter cartridges at once. This way, you will not interrupt the filtration process by removing all of the beneficial bacteria when changing out cartridges. (Tullock) Only change one cartridge at a time about every four weeks.

I use power filters in my own tanks; over the years I’ve found that they work the best to keep my aquariums in pristine conditions. These filters run by an air-pump which pulls water up through a siphon that extends nearly to the bottom of the aquarium. Then pushes water through the filter cartridges and out through a spill-way, which returns the filtered water to the tank. (Tullock)

Canister Filters
 

(Biological, Chemical, and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Canister filters contain several compartments through which the water is drawn by a pump. The water enters and leaves the tank through hoses connected to the filter. Canister filters are more efficient for larger tanks containing numerous fish. These systems are usually more expensive, but do maintain efficient water chemistry. (Tullock) I would suggest using these filters on a 20+ gallon tank.

Undergravel Filters
 

(Biological and Mechanical filtration benefits)

Undergravel filters consist of plastic plates which sit on risers about an inch above the bottom of the aquarium. Two, sometimes six, uplift tubes fit into the holes at the base of these plates. Undergravel filters cause the gravel alone to be the filter media. Though undergravel filters are beneficial for this reason, debris eventually becomes trapped in the gravel bed. The trapped debris takes hours to remove and has to be removed manually. (Tullock)

Fluidized Bed Filters
 

(Biological filtration benefits)

Much like undergravel filters, fluidized bed filters use the bed of the aquarium as the filter media; however, sand is used here instead of gravel. When water is pumped through the filter, it keeps the sand suspended and continuously moving. (Tullock) These filters are difficult to maintain, for this reason I wouldn’t recommend them to beginners. Also, sand is generally not a good substrate for Bettas, sand is better used with scale-less fish…like the dwarf puffer fish! (They are so cute!)

Sponge Filters
 

(Biological filtration benefits)

Sponge filters are very simple filters, they draw water in through a large sponge. These filters are most commonly used in quarantine, hospital, or fry tanks. (Tullock) I would not recommend this filter for use in a regular tank; however, they are very useful for fry tanks if you plan on breeding (do NOT breed Bettas if you are not experienced in this area, seek help first).

Heaters

            There are two types of heaters for the aquarium: submersible and non-submersible. Bettas prefer a temperature of 79-82 degrees Fahrenheit. Always purchase a heater with a built-in thermostat, and one which allows you to adjust the temperature. It Is also a good idea to include a thermometer in your tank to keep track of the water temp.
 

Submersible Heaters are entirely encased in a water-tight glass tube and can be placed completely in the water.
 

Non-Submersible Heaters hang on the tank’s frame while a glass tube rests in the water. These heaters cannot be completely submersed, only the glass tube may come into contact with the water.

I would recommend purchasing a submersible heater; this eliminates the risk of the non-submersible heater possibly falling into the tank by accident.

 

Sources which I will be using are from personal experience, and three of my favorite books dedicated to this topic:

 

Alderton, David. Bettas and Gouramis. Irvine: BowTie Press, 2004.

Robert J. Goldstein, Ph.D. The Betta Handbook. Hauppauge: Barron's, 2004.

Tullock, John H. Your Happy Healthy Pet Betta. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.

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